hydroponics garden

There are many advantages to hydroponics gardening but the growth rate is the most spectacular of all. In comparison with soil plants, a hydroponic plant can grow twice faster. The explanation for this difference comes from the specificity of the environment that triggers reactions in the roots of the plants. More oxygen and nutrients are absorbed in hydroponic mediums. All the energy of the plant is converted into growth if it does not have to look for minerals in the soil.

hydroponic gardening

Another great benefit of hydroponics gardening is the superior protection against disease, bug infection and fungi. Thus, hydroponic plants can grow faster because they are healthier. They provide a solution to regular gardening in very dry geographical areas and if implemented at the large scale, hydroponic systems may reduce the food crisis in under-developed countries. Many states have shown willingness to implement the system in order to have fresh food available all year round while also reducing the level of imports.

The growing mediums differ for hydroponics gardening, and it all depends on the choice of the gardener. The same line of thought applies to nutrients. These are special solutions or hydroponic fertilizers that can be ordered from specialized stores. With 2 or 4 spoonfuls of nutrients you can create a gallon of solution for your plants. You can also get nutrients for growing or blooming purposes depending on the situation. Such mixes ensure that hydroponics gardening stays effective and natural for the plants.

hydroponics gardening

Another issue here is the choice of the hydroponic system, which can be active or passive. The nutrient solution is actively pumped in active systems so that the roots have solution available all the time. They are better than passive hydroponics gardening systems that just wet the roots without providing the same level of oxygen. Do choose the active variant even if it costs more, because results will be worthy of the investment.

Hydroponics gardening may also be started simply: do not overbuy on supplies, use plastic tubs or children’s swimming pool to make your first grow beds for the plants. Consider expensive sophisticated hydroponics supplies the next step you will take in hydroponics.

Beginners usually find it reasonable to get a “plug and go” hydroponic gardening kit. It includes plant cubes, heating pad, nutrient solution, and seeds. Sunlight and water are the only things that you will have to add in this case.

If you have already decided where your hydroponic garden will be arranged, you may wish to purchase a “grow tent”, which is easily installed within an hour. Its price may vary from $250 to $500.

Thinking about a small greenhouse, take into account that it will need a drainage system and cement or gravel flooring. Also note that the price for a greenhouse may be a few thousand dollars, though the simplest ones may cost only $500.

If you plan to have a medium to large greenhouse with many plants, you will have to control temperature inside. A grow room temperature control unit will be of help in this case. It will turn the blowers or fans on if it becomes too hot in the greenhouse. It may also be used to open and close air ducts. Note that the temperature depends on the number of plants you have.

To provide the normal plants growth it is necessary to install two types of grow lights in your greenhouse – blue and red spectrum lights.

The necessary minimum may be enriched by the more advanced irrigation and drainage system if you become a skilled gardener. The quantity, types, and size of the plants will help you choose what other supplies and equipment you need in your hydroponic garden.

With the lapse of time, an experienced grower needs to have grow light fixtures in his garden, an exhaust fan, a high quality and convenient aeration system, heating mats, a temperature control unit and other supplies.

All hydroponics equipment can be found at a hydro shop. Beginners can also rely on the advice and practical tips of the professional and knowledgeable personnel. Moreover, gardeners will always find people with the similar hobby there to communicate with. 

 Ideal pH for Plant Growth

 Different pH levels are recommended for each and every plant. Attention to research should be done to ascertain the proper pH level for your plant. Findings however have found out that a pH level of 5-7 is safe for most plants, 6-6.5 being the most ideal.

 Be Careful When Handling Chemicals

 Solutions having a pH of between 3 and 10 are usually safe for handling. Caution is advised for solutions outside this range as they would likely be strong acids or bases. Gloves and goggles are advised as a precautionary measure every time you work with any type of chemical.

 Controlling pH Level

 Checking pH levels should be second nature when nutrients are introduced to your solution. When solutions acid levels are observe to be always high, solutions should be changed more frequently. When nutrients are absorbed by the plant, this action makes the solution acidic and leads to nutrient “lock up.”  pH level are signs of nutrient deficiency, be sure to constantly check them. Check your water this may be the cause and not the nutrient solutions.

Various types of pH test kits are available in the market today. Some are fairly accurate with the more expensive one showing an increased degree of accuracy. Litmus paper and liquid pH tests kits used in swimming pools are an inexpensive way of measuring pH. This works for most of the plants, but plants with more sensitive pH reactions require more elaborate ph test kits. pH UP and pH DOWN chemicals are used to adjust pH levels in your nutrient solution

Perlite has been known for years as soil additive and growing medium, used to increase aeration and soil drainage. Perlite belongs to mined materials, originating from volcanic glass. This natural material breaks into multiple tiny bubbles, when heated rapidly above 1600 deg. F.

Being one of the best hydroponic growing media, perlite is usually used by itself or as a component in mixtures with other mediums. Often it is vermiculite, which is mixed with perlite in equal proportion. Besides, perlite is often used as the major ingredient of soilless mixtures. Perlite is characterized with good wicking ability and thus it is commonly used in wick-type hydroponic systems. Finally, perlite is a relatively inexpensive growing medium.

The biggest weak point of perlite is that this material cannot hold water long enough. It means that perlite growing medium dries out quickly and requires more frequent watering. Besides, perlite dust can be harmful for human health, and it is recommended to wear a protective mask while working with it.

Vermiculite

Being another mined material, vermiculite resembles mica rock in its natural state. Under the influence of high temperature, this material breaks down into small parts just like perlite.

It is a common practice to use vermiculite in conjunction with perlite in hydroponics systems, since these two ingredients complement each other. Vermiculite is capable of retaining high volumes of moisture (up to 200% – 300% of its own weight); and since perlite cannot hold water that well, it is easy to balance your growing medium, so that it holds water and nutrients, while still supplying enough oxygen to plants roots. Usually, a 50/50 mixture of vermiculite and perlite is used for hydroponic systems of drip type, as well as for ebb and flow systems. Similarly to perlite, vermiculite is also an inexpensive growing material.

The major drawback is that vermiculite retains too much water. This material should not be used by itself as the only component of growing medium

The most essential of all nutrients for leaf and stem development. Nitrogen consumption depends on a plants growth cycle and in a vegetative growth phase of plant nitrogen consumption is greatest. Hydroponic nutrient solutions labeled as “grow” or “flower” contains more concentrations of nitrogen. Nitrogen deficiency is the leading cause of plant growth in indoor hydroponic garden systems. Yellowish, soft and weak plants and leaves are tell-tale signs of nitrogen deficiency.

Half-strength nitrogen solutions are ideal for plants between growing phases. This will prevent plant stretch while it’s switching its energy over to flower development. Normal feeding is resumed once the plant reaches the flowering stage.

Phosphorous plays a major part in root and flower development. Phosphorous deficiency signs are slow and stunted plant growth. Phosphorous is crucial to a plants flowering stage. “Bloom” type formulas contain a 0-50-30 concentration, containing no nitrogen and high levels of phosphorous and potassium.

Potassium (K)

Different in action from the previous two nutrients, it doesn’t feed the plant directly in any specific stage of growth. It merely facilitates plant intake of other primary and secondary nutrients. Potassium deficiency cause irregular plant growth and susceptibility to pests and disease. Potassium inhibits fruit production and should be lessened during this stage.

Calcium (Ca)

Facilitating and filtering the absorption of other nutrients Calcium is one essential nutrient. It is also a natural base that increases the pH level is needed. Commonly used in the vegetative phase of plant growth, calcium consumption is decreased during the flowering stage.

Mainly for chlorophyll production in photosynthesis, deficiency causes yellow leaves.

Yellow leaves are a sign of sulfur deficiency and are only used in small amounts.

Used in small amounts, iron deficiency is similar to sulfur deficiency. Yellow leaves are the general signs of deficiency. High pH causes iron absorption problems so constant monitoring is advised.

Mainly for nitrogen absorption and converts nitrates to ammonium

Boron (B)

Facilitates carbohydrate transport in the phloem, it is not essential and maybe disregarded. Boron overdose causes plant kill, it is not found in regular soils and only supplemented.

Nutrient solution is made of water with dissolved fertilizer. It is preferable to have good quality water to be mixed with the fertilizer, the amount of which is always indicated by the manufacturer. It is very important to check and adjust if necessary pH level of nutrient solution with liquid pH adjusters. Usually, pH level of the nutrient solution depends on the plant; however, most often it is between 6.0 and 6.5 for the majority of the starter cubes, with the exception being Rockwool, which needs pH level of 5.5 to 5.8. Fertilizing young plants, a gardener should use a nutrient solution as weak as ¼ to ½ of the full strength suggested by the manufacturer. Only plants older than two weeks can be fertilized by the full strength nutrient solutions. It is recommended to keep the growing medium moist, but not too wet or soaked with the hydroponics nutrient solution.      

How to Transplant Seedlings

The seedlings should be transplanted when the roots have grown out of the starter cubes. It is just necessary to place the seedling along with the starter cube on top or into the permanent growing medium, which can be any hydroponic growing medium or just soil. 

Notes in taking cutting for clones

Cutting, as a method of plants propagation, works well only if every step of the procedure is done correctly. Otherwise, experiments may result in devastating consequences. Though, when done properly, up to 95-100% of all cuttings grow successfully, it is still may be a good idea to take twice as many cuttings as needed, if you are making first steps in growing cuttings. 

One of the hints to increase chances in successful outcome is to use distilled water, while growing cuttings. Generally speaking, this is one of the most reliable and proven methods of plants propagation, suitable for most of the plants. Other examples of propagation techniques are dividing, air layering, and tissue culture. It is even possible to root cuttings without the use of any growing media in specific hydroponic systems. After forming the first roots, such cuttings are usually transplanted into any type of preferred growing media.

Defining the best growing medium is pretty challenging and disputable. It is a matter of personal likes, preferences and exact growing needs or requirements in most cases. It is like choosing a car: everyone picks the one, which suits his/her personal likes and requirements: someone chooses a small economic car for city traffic, and someone prefers powerful SUV to conquer sand and morass. Just like choosing a car depends on many factors, while choosing a growing medium it is also necessary to consider many variables, for example, what type of system is used, what plants you are going to grow and under what environmental conditions. Though there are a great variety of factors to consider while choosing a particular growing medium, it often comes to price, availability and personal preferences. 

The most common types of growing mediums as well the description of their key advantages, disadvantages, their basic characteristics and tips on general use are specified below.

Oasis cubes

 Expanded Clay Pellets

 Rockwool

Coconut Fiber

 Sand

 Gravel

Perlite

 Sphagnum Moss

 Water

Vermiculite

 Fiberglass Insulation

 Saw Dust

Soilless Mix(s)

 Air

 Lava Rock

Oasis cubes

Oasis cubes are lightweight cubes, which serves the best for plants propagation from seeds or cuttings. Pre-formed oasis cubes are commonly used by hydroponic gardeners. This type of growing medium features neutral pH level and can hold water very well.

Since oasis cubes are usually used at the first stages of plant growth, they are usually not larger than 2” x 2” inches in size. It is very easy to transplant such cubes into any type of hydroponic system, growing medium or even into the soil. 

There are many different sizes of rockwool growing media cubes. The 1x1x1.5 inches and the 2x2x1.5 inches cubes are usually not wrapped into plastic and used as seeds propagation equipment. These are the so-called “starter cubes”. Another typical size of rockwool cubes is 1.5×1.5×1.5 inches. These cubes are usually wrapped with plastic on their four sides, which helps to slow down moisture evaporation. Such cubes are recommended for growing cuttings.

As the major growing medium either 3″ or 4″ cubes are used. They can also be used in combination with some other type of growing media. If the plants are small, such cubes may work well during the whole growing process. However, for growing larger plants such cubes may be too small and need to be replaced with or transplanted into the larger growing media as the plants get bigger.

By the way, some of the bigger cubes may have a special hole of 1 inch in size to make small cubes transplantation easier. Just insert a small 1” cube into the hole in the larger cube and transplantation is over.

How to Use Slabs

Though all the slabs have depth of 3 inches and length of 36 inches, their width may be either 6, 8, 10 or 12 inches. The most widely used sizes are 6″ and 8″, since they are big enough to suit practically any hydroponics system growing needs.

Rockwool slabs are supplied sealed into the plastic wrapping. Usually, slabs are used for transplantation of small cubes into them. In order to do that, one should make X-like cut in the top plastic cover of the slab (the size of the cut should match the size of the cube to be transplanted). After that, plastic tabs are lifted aside and the cube is placed on the slab. Some gardeners fix the cube to the slab with a toothpick or small plastic spike until the roots grow into the slab.

Expenses made at the start of the project can be offset by the advantages in the long run. Fertilizers with their ever rocketing cost are major source of expenses in plant cultivation. Plants only take the nutrients they can absorb so maximum nutrient absorption without the risk of putting too much fertilizers is eliminated. But the risk of putting too much nutrients which leads to root damage remains, so proper nutrient feeding is advised.

All in all, the hydroponic system of growing plants increases plant production and quality of the crops. Nutrients essential for plant growth are readily available, proper ratio and distribution is assured resulting to better efficiency. Pesticides and plant diseases can be avoided as no soil is needed. Soil is an ideal medium for infection and disease, so harm to both plant and the individuals are reduced. Expenses are also reduced as pesticides are eliminated so overall; cost effectiveness is enhanced and make hydroponics a more economical way of growing plants.

For the environmentalist, the hydroponic system of growing plants also presents a more desirable and alternative way of plant production. The effects of growing plants through this new system has proven to be less polluting as it totally removes the need for pesticides and leaves the soil free from contaminants. Scientifically tests also show that plants grown through the hydroponic system contain more vitamins and minerals compared to those grown through fields.

Productivity is also increased with the use of Indoor hydroponic systems. Limited spaces for plant cultivation are maximized because smaller pots are used. Indoor hydroponic systems utilize different types of automated watering systems like drip, pumps and other means, allowing for a low maintenance operation. Spaces not available for plant growing can be utilized and together with regular soil gardens or fields, maximize each growing season.

Types of Indoor Hydroponic Systems

Wick or NFT

The system most often used, operated and maintained with the outmost ease. It requires very little setup and maintenance. This is done by simply cutting a hole in the bottom of the pot and a wick is inserted. The wick’s other end connects to the water reservoir below the pot.

Reservoir or Ebb and Flow System

A growing medium is directly placed into a pan filled with water and nutrients. It is easy to maintain, the pans contents needs only to be replaced every few days in order to maintain an effective system. Root adsorption is maximized with root surface in contact with the water, oxygen and nutrients are readily absorbed.

Drip Systems

The most common of all systems, drip systems are the most likely choice of hobbyists and professionals alike. The nutrient solution is kept in a container below the plants and is distributed by a pump to each plant thru a drip irrigation system. One type would be the Recovery type system; excess nutrients are recycled and channeled back into the reservoir. Another would be the Non-recovery type where excess system is not funneled back into the system, one advantage of this is that is a low maintenance system. Ph and nutrient concentration remains stable but is not as economical as the recovery type system.

Aeroponic System

Technically, the aeroponic system is the most advance of the three. Plants are suspended either without a growth rock or growing mediums. This permits the plant to breathe more air through the roots. Nutrients and water are introduced by timed misting. Root health is maintained by a timer and is set at intervals of a few minutes.

Hydroponic nutrient solutions are normally sold in concentrated forms. They are then added to the water supply with a specific ratio. Ideally, 150-600 parts per million consists a normal concentration of hydroponic solution. Normally sold in two or three parts because direct combination is not possible. Remember to mix nutrients into water first before combining, never combine two nutrients together.

 How Much Hydroponic Nutrient Solution?

 There are specific proportions for each plant type and phase of its growth. Advances in nutrient solutions have greatly improved the precision of concentration based on a plants growth stage. Hydroponic nutrient solutions are usually sold in “grow” or “growth” formulas for the vegetative phases and “bloom” or “flower” for the flowering phase of the growth cycle. Remember to switch to the bloom formula during the bloom stager to increase yields exponentially and max out your plants capacity.

In poor growing conditions weak nutrients are recommended. Low lighting, overheated gardens, crowding and root bound plants. Weak nutrients are also ideal for newly rooted cuttings and for transporting plants or when they are in the transition of growth cycles.

Normal, healthy plants can be used with regular strength solutions in ideal growing conditions. Increasing nutrient solutions could be utilized to enhance efficiency of your gardens. An ideal system such as high quality lights, proper aeration and ventilation when present is the only instance wherein you could increase the level of nutrient solutions to improve plant growth. Gradually increasing the nutrient solution is advised as not to burn the plant roots.

Various additives are also available for optimum plant growth. Maintain good grow logs or records of types of additives used, when applied and results. This enables you to measure its effectiveness in the future. If there are any negative effects with experimentation, flush or rinse your hydroponic system immediately.

 How to measure Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions

 Electronic conductivity of dissolved minerals in the water is the usual basis for determining nutrient solution. Parts per million (ppm) is the unit of measure. But this is just a general way of measuring conductivity in the solution and not the actual strength of individual minerals. This is the main reason why hydroponic nutrient solutions are sold as a mix of 3 parts. Once the desired mix is achieved it is very convenient to change the concentration to achieve proper conductivity.

Overuse of Hydroponic Fertilizers

 Flushing out your growing medium is the first intervention once any signs of over fertilization are observed this is to prevent further damage to the plant. Clean water is used for flushing until signs of nutrient deficiency are observed in the plant. Normal feeding and schedule is then resumed. Some hydroponic systems require a top down flushing to completely clean out the plant.

2 weeks before your expected date of harvest, flushing is recommended for the plant. It is done to leave your harvest free from the hydroponic solutions taste.